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Bolivia: An Ethel Travel Guide

What to do and see in this gorgeous South American country.

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Courtesy Shelley Emling
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Bolivia: Travel Guide

When Americans talk about vacationing in South America, they're usually referring to a trip to Chile, Brazil or Argentina. But I've been to all three of those countries and, wait for it, actually preferred my time in Bolivia, a hidden-gem country like no other, notable for its colorful history, incredible food/wine and jaw-dropping landscapes. At 12,000 feet above sea level, La Paz is the world's highest capital, a place that assaults the senses like nowhere else. Between the frenzied traffic and lively markets, the city is distinct. The locals, many of whom still practice ancient Andean customs, are welcoming and will warm your heart with their desire to share their love of Bolivia.

Most travelers will suffer some form of altitude sickness when traveling in Bolivia. The local coca tea helps, as does taking altitude medicine starting a day or two before your flight. Take it easy the first few days and drink lots of water and you should be fine. I know I was, although climbing even a few steps initially left me short of breath due to the thinness of the air. (Most hotels and tour guides have oxygen tanks on hand should you need them.)

Bolivia’s dry season is generally considered the best time to visit, especially for outdoor activities and high-altitude regions. From May to October, the weather is cooler and drier, providing clear skies and fewer chances of rain. However, many prefer visiting the country's famous Uyuni Salt Flats during the rainy season, running from December to April. During this time, a thin layer of water covers the salt flat, creating a mirror effect — or a stunning reflection of the sky and landscape.

1. Recommend a hotel/motel in Bolivia:

My husband and I recently (August 2025) spent nine days in beautiful Bolivia. We started in La Paz, the highest capital in the world, and then moved on to Lake Titicaca, the highest lake in the world, and then to the Uyuni Salt Flats, the world's largest salt flats. When it came to crafting an itinerary, we turned to Isandes Bolivia Tours, where the guide Renan is well-known as being the best guide in the country. The travel agency was reliable and our guide and driver were both the best. In La Paz, we stayed at the Hotel Rosario, which offered a nice breakfast buffet and spacious rooms. From there we traveled to Lake Titicaca, where we stayed at another Hotel Rosario — again, quite beautiful and right on the shores of the lake. While exploring the Uyuni Salt Flats, we stayed at the Luna Solada, a secluded retreat made almost entirely out of salt. The latter not only boasted an impressive game room that includes pool tables and ping-pong tables, but also a spa, sauna and swimming pool. Both the bar and restaurant, with large breakfast and dinner buffets, are quite good. Oh, and if you are seeking a REAL adventure, we also traveled within a few miles of the Chilean border to stay at the Tayka Del Desierto, which was really in the middle of nowhere and the highest point of our trip — at about 14,500 feet. Of course the electricity turns off in the middle of each night and it was cold but we had a great dinner with Bolivian wine. It’s the highest hotel in the world and completely solar powered. The hotel is on a not-to-be-missed tourism route that crosses an array of natural beauties, from the salt desert to the beautiful national park of Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa.

Another reliable tour guide to consider is Juan Carlos Gemio Alvarez.

2. Recommend a restaurant in Bolivia:

La Paz, with just over a million residents, offers an underrated and underpriced foodie scene. We treated ourselves to a few gastronomical delights, including dinners at Ancestral and Gustu, which has made many "top-restaurants-in-the-world" lists. We also enjoyed the most scrumptious three-course lunch at The Popular restaurant for only $8. (The Popular opens at noon each day but people start lining up at 11:30 a.m. as it's a smallish space.) While in Bolivia, we sampled llama steaks, alligator tail and rabbit. But trout is king across Bolivia and it's served in myriad ways: trucha a la plancha (grilled), trucha frita (fried), etc. Even in remote areas, trout is plentiful and restaurants typically serve it alongside rice and a salad.

3. What's a must-see in Bolivia?

There are so many must-sees in Bolivia, it's hard to name just one. In La Paz, you must enjoy a ride on a cable car — or teleferico. Inaugurated in 2014, the vast network of cable cars acts as the city's completely reliable public transportation system. With 26 stations, you can catch a ride just about anywhere. Similar to hopping on a gondola at a ski resort, there is almost no wait and the price is right: 3 bolivianos or about 30 cents. What a fabulous way — from the sky — to see all of La Paz!

In addition to the above, don't miss the Witches Market, where dozens of vendors line the streets selling a variety of fascinating, albeit somewhat disturbing, items, such as dried llama fetuses that are said to bring both good luck and prosperity, dried frogs, aphrodisiac formulas, dried turtles, herbs and folk remedies. And take some time to visit Plaza Murillo, the main plaza in the city's historical center. On one side of the plaza, you'll find the neoclassical cathedral that took 152 years to build. Next to it is the colonial Government Palace, which is now the office of Bolivia's president.

To really get a grasp on all that La Paz has to offer, sign up for a walking tour — or possibly a food walking tour since there are just so many hidden-gem spots to grab a tasty meal.

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Courtesy Shelley Emling

From La Paz, you can take side trips to the country's various otherworldly sites including the Uyuni Salt Flats, the largest salt flats in the world created by prehistoric lakes that dried up into a mind-bending crystalline plain. Standing upright in this bizarre landscape, you'll see all around you a salt desert stretching out into infinity and beyond. It's as though you are walking on the moon. The salt flat is also special because it's high up near the Andes at nearly 12,000 feet above sea level. You can spend days exploring Uyuni, including stops at the photogenic Cactus Island in the middle of the flats and the spooky abandoned train graveyard. (FYI: A guide/driver is imperative for visiting the salt flats.)

4. What else makes Bolivia so special?

Enjoy an overnight in Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake. Amid this breathtaking lake is the mesmerizing island of Isla del Sol, a place of Andean legend. An hour-long boat ride away from the shores of Lake Titicaca, the island is the mythical birthplace of the Incas. Spending a night on Isla del Sol (highly recommended) is a bit like walking back in time with no cars and locals going about their daily business in traditional dress. Don't miss walking the trail circuits connecting the northern part of the island to its southern tip.

In addition, in Copacabana's Plaza 2 de Febrero, you'll see lines of cars waiting their turn to be blessed in front of the glowing white walls of the Basilica de la Virgen de Copacabana. It's fascinating to observe a priest moving from car to car, and from family to family, to offer a blessing.

FYI: There are loads of souvenir stands lining the streets in Copacabana as well as restaurants along the shore of the lake, with most offering various trout dishes although you can also find "American" meals such as pizza and pasta. And try Bolivian wine! Who knew Bolivian wines were so good, garnering dozens of medals in international wine competitions?

5. What should you avoid when visiting Bolivia?

You can take an Uber in La Paz, but taxis are so plentiful and cheap, you might want to avoid waiting for an Uber. Also, try to avoid drinking tap water; drink bottled water instead. You should also know that Americans must pay $160 for a visa, which can be obtained with local currency or U.S. dollars upon arrival at the airport. (To make things easier, apply online before traveling.) Other don'ts: Don't try to take coca leaves out of the country. Don't accept torn or damaged Boliviano notes and don't take photos of people without asking permission first. Do use cash and do learn basic Spanish.

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