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Let’s start with full disclosure here. I’ve never been the outdoorsy type. Give me heated buildings, great architecture and nearby restaurants, and I’m happy. But my husband, Randy, and I take turns choosing where we vacation next, and he chose Iceland.
Plenty of friends who have returned from Icelandic journeys rave about craters, gorges and waterfalls, the fresh-tasting water, and fields of jumbled lava rocks. I hear about how user-friendly Iceland is for older travelers. One friend visited three months after his hip replacement and raved about the thoughtfully constructed steps and walkways. His wife waxed lyrical about the clean bathrooms, even in gas stations. All of which turned out to be true.
When planning, there are three main questions to ask yourself:
Winter (Northern lights) or Summer (20 hours of daylight)?
Tour or rental car?
Base yourself in the capital city of Reykjavik with separate day trips — or book multi-overnight stays along the route?
We opted for a six-night summer visit, renting a car and four hotel stops. We planned to start with the southeast coast for glacier viewing, head back to the Golden Circle, and then up to the Snaefellsnes peninsula for the best black sand beach. There are certain must-see locations. Missing one would be like skipping the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
Of the thousands of waterfalls, the big kahuna is Gullfoss in the Golden Circle with its two dramatic cascades. The best of the best geysers is Strokkur, also in the Golden Circle. It erupts every 10 minutes, and you can walk right up to it. Thingvellir Park’s claim to fame used to be as the site where Iceland’s first Parliament was formed in 930. Now it’s famous for its many Game of Thrones settings.
Planning your itinerary is easier than typing one. There are 32 letters in the Icelandic alphabet, and about 100 letters in every name. We visited Vatnajokull National Park and ate dinner in Kirkjubæjarklaustur. I think that’s why Iceland’s Blue Lagoon is such a popular tourist attraction. It’s pronounceable. I didn’t even attempt to learn basic phrases like Where is the bathroom? Hello is Hallo and thank you is Takk. Totally doable. But beyond that, I’m grateful everyone spoke English.
Here's the good. The bad. The wacky:
TAKK, ICELAND
Despite being indecipherable, the language is fun! I dubbed the Snaefellsnes peninsula “Snagglepuss.”
FOOD
If you like lamb, cod or Arctic char, I have a country for you! Our meals were fresh, creative and beautifully prepared, but, yes, often pricey. A bowl of soup costs $18. The wildly popular pylsur — also known as a hot dog — is more affordable, running between $4 and $5.
We loved lunch at the Fridheimar tomato farm with its tomato soup and yummy breads. You can also order tomato beer, tomato ice cream, tomato jam-topped cheesecake and, of course, Bloody Marys. And here’s a shoutout to the adventurous young man at the adjoining table at The Icelandic Bar in Reykjavik, who ordered traditional sheep’s head. That’s what it is. A sheep’s head. I asked him to turn his plate so those eyes weren’t staring at me.
MUSEUMS
The Perlan Museum in Reykjavik is the go-to spot for experiencing ice caves (bring a warm coat!) and (digital) Northern Lights, and the Skogar Museum offers an eye-opening deep dive into Iceland’s cultural heritage, but the Shark Museum wins for zany uniqueness. We learned that sharks live to 400 years, their average reproductive age is 150 years, and shark meat is a great cure for hangovers. It has the texture of camembert cheese and, after tasting it, you chew on a piece of bread to kill the “ammonia aftertaste.” I know this for a fact. Tastes are explained in the price of admission.
We also saw the small wooden boat used by the museum owner’s great-great-grandfather for shark fishing in totally dark, freezing January seas. The next time I’m complaining at a cold bus stop, I will remember Grandpa.
HIGHLIGHT
Oh, how I loved the magical Fjallsarlon Glacier Lagoon Tour. While riding in a Zodiac boat (the rubber bumper kind), our guide, Marcus, talked about prisms and crevasses and why ice is blue. But I was too busy being mesmerized by all the floating icebergs. They aren’t just beautiful, they’re BEAUTIFUL. If you’re lucky (we were!), you’ll get to see one flip over — bottoms up — caused by an imbalance-forcing fracture. (according to Marcus.)
SHOPPING
There’s a Value Added Tax of 24 percent on every item. I bought a tube of lip balm in the Blue Lagoon gift shop for $32. Later, I saw it online for $22. (But I love the lip balm!) Best bet is to shop for your Icelandic wool gloves in the duty-free stores at the Reykjavik airport, where kudos goes to the sunglass store named EYESLAND.
RANDOM ODDBALL TIPS
If driving, double-check your map. Seven waterfalls are named Gullfoss, and 13 are named Selfoss. Make sure you’re heading to the right Foss.
When comparing days-long tours, count how many meals are included — you’ll save on out-of-pocket meal costs.
I took loads of photos, but back home, all my gorges and waterfalls blurred together. I’d recommend taking a few selfies to prove you’ve been to Iceland. Otherwise, just stay in the moment and buy some postcards.
A typical direct flight from the Northeast to Iceland takes between five and seven hours. For us New Yorkers, it was faster to fly to Reykjavik than to Los Angeles!
On our flight home, I admitted to Randy that Iceland was exciting. Three days later, a volcano erupted, evacuating the Blue Lagoon and nearby areas. That might have been too exciting.
Have any of YOU ever been to Iceland? Did you love it? Let us know in the comments below.
